Romania -- My Tablet Magazine article on Candlesticks on Stone

Candlesticks on Stone. Radauti, Romania, September 2009. Photo (c) Ruth Ellen Gruber

Here's the link to my piece in Tablet Magazine about my (Candle)sticks on Stone project, about the representation of women in Jewish tombstone are -- Tablet ran it with a nice slide show of my photos.

It was the first week in September, and in cowboy boots and jeans, camera slung over my shoulder, I crunched through the springy thick tangle of undergrowth that carpets the old Jewish cemetery in Radauti, a market town in the far north of Romania, near the Ukrainian border. Around me stretched the crowded, ragged rows of tilted tombstones: gray and mossy green, some still bearing remnants of the blue and black and red painted decoration that once adorned the exquisite, ornate carving on their faces.

Read on...

I'm about (finally) to start putting up the photo galleries on the project web site.

Brussels, Belgium// The Tuck-In

Update: We're lucky to live a great life and no disasters. Please, help out people around you who need help, people affected by disasters. Unlucky, it's tragedy-flood-for people in Philippines and a part of Vietnam. Please, call 1-800-RED-CROSS or 1-800-257-7575(Spanish) 0r online at www.redcross.org for your donation. Thank you very much. Bless us all.

Hi everyone,
In the last post, I posted Ann D who is a Belgian designer. Her post made me recall our trip to Belgium. In this post, I invite you to visit a very enjoyable city that is the capital and largest city of Belgium.
Brussels is known for its lovely architecture that mixes French and Flemish culture. The Grand Place is the heart of the city and which sees many local people as well as tourists thronging there. It's also one of the most beautiful squares in Europe surrounded by buildings dating from the 1400s, and dozens of small narrow old streets. It's well know for its large " Flower carpet". The display of flowers is arranged on the square every two years for few days in middle of August. If you would like to see this display, you should check with your hotel for exact day.

The picture below is from google to show you how the "Flower carpet" displays on the Grand Place square. Our trip was in Fall, so I didn't have a chance to see it.Atomium built for the 1958 Brussels World Fair (Expo'58) has become an internationally recognised symbol of the city and the whole country.
Another symbol of Brussels is the sculpture of a young boy called Manneken Pis. It's about five minutes walk from the Grand Place. They have a great souvenir store here and fun tees of Manneken Pis.
This is one of my hubby's favorite tees that I bought for him from the trip. For more sightseeing and history, you would do well to pay a visit the the Palais Royal, the Catheral, and the Musees Royaux des Beaux Arts.

One of the best parts was going shopping for hours while my hubby enjoyed drinking Belgium beer and read newspapers at the many cafe' bars here. You should visit Saint Hubert Gallery was opened in 1847 and proud to be the first shopping mall in the world which you can find many nice boutiques, store, cafes, and restaurants. Avenue Louise is Brussels most fashionable shopping mile, you can find high-end designer brands as well as innovative Belgium designers. Check out La Rue Neuve for great shopping too.

St Hubert Gallery. Belgium beer is one of the most delicious beers in the world. Interestingly, every beer has a distinct glass into which it is poured.
Chocolate is one of the many passions in Belgium. Neuhous chocolates is the best known of Belgium's top quality chocolates. You can find many chocolate stores around the city, and make sure to visit the chocolate museum - another fun thing to do.
I shouldn't forget to mention Belgium waffles. They are delicious. I remember I had waffles with chocolate for my breakfast and lunch the whole time I was there. At the end, I gained few pounds, but it wasn't that bad because we walked around the city a lots too..;-)

The Tuck-in

Few days ago, the weather was much cooler in Dallas and brought out my Marni fur and Jil Sander Fall08 over the knee boots for a night out with my hubby. I paired them with F21 harem pants and F21 tank. This look is inspired by Isabel Marant's Fall 09 runway-looks, blousy pants tucked in over knee boots.

Celine sunglasses, Eddie Borgo necklace.

Ferragamo brass clutch. Sorry for carrying it backward...;-) didn't note it...hehe...

Have a fabulous day to you all!!!!xoxo..Hanh,

PS: my hot pink Nina Ricci that I wore in past posts, were from Jeffrey store in NY.

Ann Demeulemeester Belt

Hi everyone,

Thank you everyone for all the sweet comments and kindly advice from the previous post which comforted me alots. I always appreciate your time visiting my site and leaving lovely comments. I know I haven't been visiting your blogs much. Lately, I've been busy keeping company with my parents. They usually come to visit and stay with me for about 6 months, and I'm happy to be in their company. I'll manage my time to visit your site..;-).

Anyway, I've had my eyes on this 14 buckles belt ever since I saw it on Ann D F09 runway. But I never thought I'd be able to get it because not many stores carry this belt. On my last trip to NY, I saw that Bergdorf Goodman carries it and just has only one in the whole company. Sadly, it's not my size. Since then, I fell in love with it even more. Back in Dallas, I dreamed about it and I took a chance and called Ann D boutique in Belgium....OMG!! they have my size. After shipping and the import fee it is still cheaper than at Bergdorf Goodman...yeah!!!!. I can see this belt is fabulous, and a great piece to invest in and add into my wardrobe collection. It's an art piece and a versatile one. You probably see me wearing this belt a lot.

Ann D has been on my A list as a designer. She was born in 1959 in Belgium. To her, fashion is a form of communication. Her complex language of contrasts covers a whole gamut of emotions. The tension is highly poetic-her clothes reveal many layers of "soul". They're simple, serious but never severe, meticulous but experimental, strong but always sensual.

Ann D white shirt dress, Ysl boots, Alaia studded clutch.

On the runway from style.com

Wishing you all a happy Sunday!!!!and a great week ahead!!!!

Big Hugs...Hanh;-)

Hava Nagila in Czernowitz

By Ruth Ellen Gruber

On Sept. 6, during my trip to Romania to work on my (Candle)sticks on Stone project, I made a day trip to Chernivtsi, Ukraine -- A.K.A. Czernowitz or Cernauti -- just across the border. The city has changed, at least in outward appearance, since my last visit three years ago: 2008 marked the 600th anniversary of the town, and there was considerable investment expended in clean-up, paint-up and fix-up.

We strolled down the lovely main pedestrian street, admiring the fine buildings along it, newly painted in pastel candy colors. Suddenly, we heard the familiar strains of Jewish music -- first a Yiddish folk song, and then Hava Nagila.



The music was coming from up ahead, it wasn't exactly clear from where. I thought it might be something connected to the European Day of Jewish Culture, which was being celebrated that day. But no -- it was just a wedding (or, rather, an apparent series of weddings). Not Jewish, though. The couples and their friends exited the church and came to dance on the pedestrian way, near a little park. Here a band was set up under a red, white and blue tent. And, we were told, face-paced klezmer and Israeli songs were a big hit.

I had come to Czernowitz, in fact, to take part in a European Day of Jewish Culture event -- the presentation of Simon Geissbuehler's new book on Jewish cemeteries in the Bucovina.

Local Rabbi Kofmansky at the book presentation. Photo (c) Ruth Ellen Gruber

There had been a presentation event in Radauti the day before, hosted at the new Gerald's Hotel, which had contributed some sponsorship to the book, but in Czernowitz it took place at the Jewish culture building (Jewish National House) and was organized by Jewish institutions. I was gratified that in his talk Simon quoted from the Introduction of my "Jewish Heritage Travel" to describe his own feelings:

When I first researched this book, I became absolutely mesmerized, even a little obsessed with what I was seeing. I wanted to visit, touch, see, feel as many places as I could. I almost felt it a duty. As I entered broken gates or climbed over broken walls into cemeteries where a Jew may not have set foot in years, I wanted to spread my arms and embrace them all, embrace all the tombstones, all the people buried there, all the memories.

Jewish National House. Photo (c) Ruth Ellen Gruber

The building is where the historic international Yiddish congress took place in 1908. The meeting drew 70 delegates representing many political and religious factions -- they included luminaries such as the authors I.L. Peretz and Sholem Asch. There were heated debates over when Hebrew, which was then being revived, or Yiddish, whch was spoken by millions of Jews, could be considered the Jewish national language. In the end, a resolution was adopted that declared Yiddish "a" national language of the Jewish people, along with Hebrew. Click RIGHT HERE for a web site that includes papers, photographs and other material from that congress.

The Jewish National House was built at a time when all major minorities in the city erected imposing cultural headquarters. On our walk through the city, we passed the German National House and the Romanian National House.

Today it houses a number of Jewish organizations as well as new new little Jewish museum, opened in 2008. It's just a two-room exhibit, and there are not a lot of artifacts on display (many of them, though are quite interesting every-day objects, including advertisements, houseold items and even a fur streiml), but the story of Czernowitz Jews is told in photographs and narrative panels that are -- amazingly -- translated into English.

Streiml under glass. Photo (c) Ruth Ellen Gruber

Pink Autumn

Early this morning, when I was helping my kids get ready for school, I realized that autumn is officially here. I can feel the air getting cooler, the skies are changing into gray, and the sun likes to hide in the clouds. I had a strange feeling, that time is running too fast. Next month, my kids will turn one year older. I truly love their age right now, very innocent and sweet. I suddenly wonder about their teenage years and hope they will be good teenagers. I heard that dealing with teens is not easy. My kids and I are best friends now. We have a "Girl best friends club" at the house with a best friend secret code. Hopefully, the girl best friends club will last forever and we share all our secrets. That might help me to understand them more at teenage years, I think.., I hope.... I worry too much, don't I?.

Look at my big girl, she is getting bigger everyday.

I wore MMMargiela one shoulder body suit from Century 21 store, CdG skirt from Ina consignment store, Ysl bag, and my new Nina Ricci shoes. The fur scarf, I forgot its brand.

I wish you have a fabulous day!!!!Big hugs...Hanh!

Swatch Give-away / Power Cuts

Swatch- Give away Gift.

Hi everyone,

To celebrate the 2009 CreArt Collection, Swatch and its partner Broadway Cares/Equity Fights AIDS are giving away a Billy the Artist Morning Glow watch! Become a fan of Swatch US, and enter the contest www.facebook.com/SwatchUS and Broadway Cares www.facebook.com/BCEFA.

Here is a fresh new picture of supermodel NYC hipster Agyness Deyn rocking the Swatch from Friday.

Power Cuts

Power cuts-strong shapes and exaggerated sculptural detail make sexy, empowering pieces-from September Elle UK.

This look, by Richard Nicoll. This look, by Hussein Chalayan.
This look, by Antonio Berardi.

This look, by Jil Sander.
Wishing you all a wonderful day!!!!!xoxo...Hanh;-)

Desk update from Abu Dhabi: month #45 on the road but whose counting?

We're back in the UAE and after a couple of days in Dubai (pictured*), we're chained to desks once again in Abu Dhabi - not our desks, but our friends', at their colossal home in the new part of the capital, off the island. The closest thing to a 'home' for us still being in storage in Dubai. A 'desk update' in publishing-speak suggests a guidebook update by phone and email. It's what publishers commission authors or in-house staff to do when they're not inclined to spend the money to send writers on the road. From what we're hearing, it's happening increasingly of late. But we won't have that. Aside from the fact that we still don't have a 'home' to speak of - this week marks our 45th month living out of our suitcases! - travelling is why we do what we do. Why on earth a travel writer would want to write something from a desk without having been to a place we'll never know. We've well and truly researched the stories and reviews we're currently writing up, having spent the last six weeks on the road travelling around Syria, Qatar and Kuwait. But we're paying for it now. We're tired. Chronically tired. My feet are wrecked. We've both been fighting off the flu for a couple of weeks although poor Terry has finally lost his battle. As we write, we're talking to publishers and potential sponsors about future projects - in Thailand, Syria, and the Arabian Peninsula - and in the interim we're considering trips to Lebanon, Jordan, Yemen, Iran, and possibly Kathmandu. We're also contemplating an opportunity that could keep us on the road even longer if it comes off, but more on that in the near future... for now, deadlines await. So what have you been up to and where are you going next?

* the pic is of the view from our room at Jumeirah Emirates Towers where we stayed recently; Terry had photographed the hotel and we'd done site inspections so many times over the years, but never checked in. Now we've stayed, we know why it consistently wins awards for being Dubai's best business hotel. While the rooms are a bit dated in terms of their style, they're impressively appointed, the lobby has always been one of the city's buzziest, and the towers and adjoining Boulevard are home to some of my favorite restaurants and bars, including Vu's, Noodle House and The Agency.

Romania -- Jewish cemetery in Gura Humorului

By Ruth Ellen Gruber

I've begun to post some YouTube videos of Jewish cemeteries in northern Romania that I am documenting for my (Candle)sticks on Stone project, which examines the way that women are represented in Jewish tombstone art.

The first video is of the cemetery in Gura Humorului, a little town in the heart of the painted monastery country -- two wonderful medieval monasteries, Humor and Voronets, are nearby. To me, the beautiful Jewish tombstones are in perfect harmony with the wonderful paintings on the monastery walls: touriststs visit the monasteries, however, and few people set foot in the cemetery.

Rick Owens- Futuristic Look

One of the best parts about New York was the way the weather changes in such a short period of time. I got to wear almost everything I packed for the trip.
I packed a lots of Rick Owens clothing because he is in my all time A list designers. This is one of my favorite looks of his F/W09 rtw collection. It's very futuristic, strong, edgy, constructed and luxurious look. I like to dress it up by wearing sheer tight and a pair of edgy Pierre Hardy shoes. I have to say the beauty of Owens' leather jackets showing he is a master of using leather in his design. I forgot to take picture from the back of the jacket to show you the two wings in the back that look very cool, maybe next time then;-). Look at the shoulders, they are awesome, I love that.

Pierre Hardy shoes.
Alaia studded clucth.

Rick Owens mini dress.

From Rick Owens F/W09 runway.

Wishing you all a fabulous day!!!!

Big hugs....from Hanh ;-)

Ps: Thank you very much everyone for continuing support and lovely comments. I greatly appreciate that as always.

Romania -- Jewish heritage

A disused synagogue in Radauti. Photo (c) Ruth Ellen Gruber

By Ruth Ellen Gruber

My trip to Romania the first week of September coincided with the annual European Day of Jewish Culture -- and I was able to take place in Culture Day events both in Radauti, Romania and in Chernivtsi (Czernowitz) Ukraine. Both events were presentations of the new book by the Swiss diplomat Simon Geissbuehler on Jewish cemeteries in Bucovina -- both sides of the border.

Here is video of my talk in Radauti -- I discuss my own connection to the region but also note the importance of recognizing Jewish heritage and Jewish history, culture and heritage as part of national and local history culture and heritage in general. It's a theme that I have written about frequently and have tried to stress over the years.






Meanwhile, the Federation of Jewish Communities in Romania has issued a statement addressing criticism from some Haredi (strictly orthodox) that they have failed to adequately care for the synagogues, cemeteries and other Jewish sites in their care. FedRom, according to its statement, owns 88 synagogues and 821 Jewish cemeteries. Of these, 34 synagogues and 14 cemeteries are classed as national monuments and thus are acknowledged as part and parcel of the Romanian National Patrimony." Some 638 cemeteries exist in places where no Jews have lived for many years.

The statement outlines the issues and problems. Many of these -- including lack of resources and lack of personnel to take care of numerous sites, and difficulty in finding uses for synagogue buildings in towns were not Jews live -- are common across the region. They were addressed at the Jewish heritage seminar in Bratislava in March, which Romania representatives also attended and which released a statement including recommended good practices and principles in the care and maintenance of Jewish heritage sites.

Here is the text of the Romanian statement:

Lately, some media in Romania and abroad, expressed critical opinions (sometimes, even containing accusations) towards the Federation of Jewish Communities of Romania (FEDROM), regarding the status of the Jewish Sacred Assets in Romania.

Regarding this complex and difficult issue, the leadership of the Federation would like to inform the public opinion about the following:

1.According to the Romanian legislation (Law no. 598 / 2002), the synagogues, Jewish cemeteries and ritual baths (mikvehs) are the rightful property of the Federation of Jewish Communities of Romania. These sacred assets were created with the financial resources of the Jewish population from Romania, who lived for centuries in this area. As such, any private claim is groundless. We would like to emphasize that even the totalitarian regimes of the past recognized this property right of the Jewish communities upon their sacred assets.

2.Currently, according to the FEDROM, we own and take care of 88 synagogues and 821 Jewish cemeteries (13 of which were identified during the last 3 years). From the total number of synagogues, many are located in areas were Jews have not been living anymore for decades. Similarly, 638 cemeteries are located in areas where Jews have not been living for a long time. The majority of the existing synagogues are heavily affected by physical degradation. A number of 34 synagogues and 14 cemeteries are legally classified as historical monuments, thus being acknowledged as part and parcel of the Romanian National Patrimony.

3.The current condition of the cemeteries cannot make us happy, even though, due to all the efforts of FEDROM and of the communities, 119 cemeteries are well-kept and in a good condition, while another 224 are in an acceptable condition. The major issues we face, regarding the cemeteries, are:

» Repairing and replacing fences, including after deterioration and theft;

» Keeping the existing vegetation within normal parameters (weeds, small trees, etc.) This permanently involves land clearing, transporting the cut vegetation out of the area, the use of herbicides and cutting branches – leading to a total expense of approximately 2,432,000 lei (608,000 €) every year;

» The need to repair approximately 73,000 monuments which are broken, tipped over, destroyed by vandals and natural phenomena;

» Guarding the cemeteries, in compliance with the law.

4.The activity of preserving the Jewish Religious Assets requires important financial resources, greatly surpassing the actual means of the Jewish communities of Romania. A few numbers are testifying to this fact:

» In 2007, the Romanian Government allotted 400,000 lei from their budget, for a special program of preservation of the synagogues and Jewish cemeteries in Romania. Between 2005 and 2009, restoration works at the synagogues in Orastie, Piatra Neamt and Iasi (currently in progress) have been carried out, with financing from the Ministry of Culture and Religion.

» Important repair and restoration works for the Choral Temple in Bucharest are undergoing, with a substantial financial contribution of the Bucharest City Hall for the renovation of the façade.

» FEDROM itself has allotted and spent, between 2006 and 2008, over 3,300,000 lei (over 1.1 million dollars), for the preservation of the Jewish Sacred Assets, more specifically for the benefit of 131 synagogues and 145 cemeteries. Due to the current financial crisis, the work volume and resources have dramatically decreased in 2009, a few works already in progress being continued at the Choral Temple in Bucharest, the „Templul Meseriasilor” in Galati and the „Great Synagogue” in Oradea.

The financial resources of FEDROM are, by enlarge, made up of the amounts received from the American Jewish Joint Distribution Committee (USA), the „Caritatea” Foundation and some contribution made by Romanian born Jews.

Unfortunately, due to the current global financial crisis, we received this year less and less contributions from the above mentioned sources, which has a negative impact on our efforts to preserve the Jewish Sacred Assets. Nonetheless, this in by no means due to neglect on behalf of FEDROM and the communities.

5.It is unjust and immoral to expect – in such an absolute way – from the small number of Jews currently living in Romania, without an even remotely encouraging socio-demographic structure, to guard and ensure an impeccable look and functioning of the Jewish Sacred Assets.

On behalf of the Board of Directors of FEDROM

President,

Aurel Vainer, Ph.D.

Gareth Pugh

Gareth Pugh cut-out leather scarf is my first piece that I own from his label. He is young British designer, born August 1981. His design is very futuristic fantasy zone. He often uses nonsensically shapes, wearable sculpture to distort the human body almost beyond recognition. He describes his designs as being " about struggle between lightness and darkness".
I found this scarf at Century 21 store in NY with incredible inexpensive price and I'm already falling in love with it, deeply. I paired it with rag&bone legging, F21 tank, Ysl F09 boots, and Balenciaga snake-skin jacket that I found at Ina consignment store in NY. I also bought this jacket with a ridiculous great deal.

I also found this Celine sunglasses at Ina consignment store in Soho, NY.

F21 cuffs. Close-up the scarf.

Wishing you all a fabulous, relaxing, peaceful weekend with your family and friends!!!!

Big hugs and kisses...to you!!Hanh;-)