Garden tours and the blossoming of thoughts on things green

As the garden tourists strolled my aunt and uncle's grounds last weekend, I began to see the light - well, I'd spent a week reflecting upon dark tourism after all - but I began to see the light reflecting through the trees and shrubs in the garden here in new and different ways. I tried to see them not as a writer or photographer, but simply as someone who appreciates gardens. I started to give some thought to why specific trees might have been planted and why they were located in certain places. I tried to recall how a particular flowering shrub looked when we first arrived a few months ago, how it looked when we were here last year, and how it appeared now. Was it even flowering? Why of course not, because different things flowered at different times of year. So I began to appreciate the arrangement of the garden, and how, while it looked wild and natural, it really was rather cleverly thought-out, the way it directed people here and there, provided places for them to explore, spots for them to sit and reflect. I began to see the flowers themselves. Normally my eyes are mainly drawn to bold colour and unusual textures, but now I began to become intrigued by everything and notice things I hadn't really paid attention to before. I saw perfect flowers which had just freshly opened and were revealing themselves to us in all their youthful beauty for the first time. I spotted sturdy buds about to blossom, and began to wonder when they might make their appearance. I even got a little excited at the prospect. But then I began to think: now the horticultural tourist probably knows exactly what a certain flower will look like when it opens. But surely that would take away the element of surprise? And then it occurred to me: like a film theorist who understands narrative structure and can determine how a movie will end but still enjoys seeing the story unfold, part of the joy of creating a garden and watching everything grow must surely be about seeing how everything comes together and having your satisfactions met? Like travellers who research and plan trips, organizing itineraries, and booking hotels, activities and tours, gardeners must also delight in developing expectations of their garden with the hope of having them met. So then I began to think about the horticultural tourist, and I wondered what their goals were when they set out to visit gardens. What did they hope to gain from moseying around gardens like that of my aunt and uncle's? Was it purely for the aesthetic pleasure or was there something more? What did they think about? And what were their aims when they planned a trip away to see gardens?

Can gardens tell stories?

I know that gardens can contain secrets (I was a little girl once) but can they tell stories? Can gardens reveal narratives to a person who knows how to read them? Or have I simply been reading too much into the cultivation of gardens and horticultural touring? (You need to read my last post first.) I know that the birch trees in the garden here at Tamara and George’s house are a reminder for my uncle George of our family's Russian heritage and the years he spent in St Petersburg as a young man, studying medicine, falling in love, and discovering Tarkovsky. I am imagine as George strolls his garden – “like the lord of the manor”, Tamara says – that those slender silver-branched trees that rustle moodily in the wind act like an aide-memoire prompting Russian recollections. Or perhaps just impressions. Well, that’s what I’d hope. And I’m sure the many trees, plants and flowers Tamara has planted – all of which Tamara calls “she”, as in “See how beautiful she’s looking!” – must provoke memories for her too. But what about for the strangers who visit gardens, like the horticultural tourists who ambled about here last weekend – does the garden tell them stories too, do you think?

The garden of leafy delights: part 1

Have you ever been on a garden tour? Last weekend my aunt Tamara threw open the gate to this lovely big old Australian house she and my uncle George have renovated in Eaglehawk on the outskirts of Bendigo in the goldfields region of Victoria. It's the same house where Terry and I have been lucky to spend our time writing up the two Australian books over recent months (and where we finished writing the Cyprus and Italy books while we planned our Australian road trip last year); the same house with the rustic kitchen where Terry does so much cooking in the evenings to keep us sated and sane (the results of which you can see on his blog Wide angles, wine and wanderlust). So Tamara threw open the doors to a horticultural group - most of them quite elderly, some of them a little frail, many of them horticultural judges, all wearing hand-written name tags - so they could tour this splendid garden. She did the same last month, at the request of the president of the Eaglehawk Dahlia and Arts Festival, and she does the same every year. Two tour groups arrived that Saturday, as they did this last weekend - just to stroll the glorious garden here. They admired specific plants, and discussed whether they were 'native' or 'exotic', they appreciated the arrangement of things, pointing at one plant and then another, and they secretly snipped clippings to take home (of course I noticed) where I guess they hoped to achieve similar wondrous results. Tamara had spent a couple of days beforehand giving the garden a general tidy, pulling weeds, watering, and sweeping paths, and that morning we put the sign up the president had provided on display out front. I didn't see the need for a sign as the group were arriving on a bus organized for them. Perhaps it was simply to formalize the event? It was nothing more than an amble about a garden after all. But to the group it was obviously a special day. Tamara didn't do a lot to prepare the garden, as I said. She said they could accept it the way it was. And they did. They absolutely delighted in strolling the garden. And who wouldn't?

The garden of leafy delights: part 2

And it is an enchanting garden, in the style of those wild, romantic, 18th century, English cottage gardens that inspired the Italians to establish their elaborate, sprawling villa gardens on the Italian Lakes. From the front gate a path meanders up to the porch of the house, a pretty pond on one side that's home to frogs, a fountain and floating waterlilies, and on the other side a shimmery birch forest and beyond that another pond that's home to a handsome white duck called Ferdinand and an ever-expanding school of fish that magically appeared one day (a theory is that birds dropped the fish in on their flight past, but people in these parts always have theories). Another path leads by the side of the house, itself concealed by creeping vines, where there is another small birch forest and everywhere an abundance of greenery. Beyond this a terrace with a big glass table and charming wrought-iron chairs where we occasionally sit together and eat in the sun - generally only when there are guests and not nearly as much as we should. The whole garden is lush and leafy and fragrant, with plenty of places to sit scattered about, a bench here, chairs and tables there, a swinging seat in the corner - all made for sitting back with a glass of something to delight in this gorgeous garden. And of course, we seldom do that either. I remember being a child and playing in my grandparents' gardens, hiding beneath big hollow shrubs I'd turn into cubby houses where I could hold tea parties with my dolls, and I wished then that I'd had a garden like this with its secret spots seemingly created especially for 'hide and seek'. This garden must be heaven for small children. Just as it was to the older garden-lovers last weekend...

Victoria's bushfires: radio to the rescue

Who would have thought Radio would become the media hero during Victoria's bushfire tragedy. But radio, that old-fashioned medium my grandparents called 'the wireless', has proved to be the most vital media of all, in fact, far more useful than the Internet and television. That's partly because the radio has become a quasi 'bush telegraph'. The bush telegraph being that magical means of communication (AKA 'the grapevine' or 'rumour mill') that spreads news across vast distances through word of mouth - something that was already alive and well in rural Australia, enacted daily via the mobile (or satellite) phone, text-messaging, the Internet, Facebook and Twittering. However, on the weekend when phone lines were congested, power was cut, and checking websites or email was the last thing on the mind of people escaping infernos, radio was what everyone relied upon. It was via radio that the ABC (Australian Broadcasting Corporation) and it's excellent rural radio service more precisely, communicated updates and advice from the Country Fire Authority as to when people should activate bush fire survival plans, when they should evacuate, which areas to avoid to stay safe, which roads were open or closed etc - information that saved the lives of those able to listen. We listened constantly. And we've left the radio on ever since. On Saturday, the day the most devastating fires hit Bendigo, I was checking the CFA's website for more detailed advice, but the website was often updated too late - in a couple of instances, several hours after the radio had broadcast the important information we needed. The radio proved to be a lifesaver to so many. And in the wake of the disaster it's been relied upon to get news of loved ones separated while evacuating; reporters have been broadcasting from community centres across the state, giving airtime to individuals to let their family know their location. They've allowed people to get on air and make announcements: from government reps telling victims where to access funds, food, shelter and free mobile phones, to op shop staff thanking people for donations but calling for volunteers to help sort those donations. One man offered up accommodation at his caravan park to people now homeless. Equally as important, reporters have handed over their mics to people simply to allow them to tell their stories, to share their horrific experiences, their loss, and their grief. That shared experience, that shared mourning, will no doubt help the healing process of individuals, of the community, and of the country. Radio has demonstrated it's still very much a vital part of people's lives here in Australia. That's not to say people haven't been using social media, they have; read this article on ABC News: Social media explodes in wake of deadly bushfires. It's just that radio came to the rescue in a way no other media could.

Bushfires in Bendigo, part 2: the very tragic aftermath and a national tragedy

Tonight the sky is glowing an eerie orange. It's only the sunset, but it's a reminder of the tragedy that unfolded yesterday afternoon and continued throughout the night. And sadly for many people it's not over. I've just watched the evening news on television and am stunned at the devastation caused from the fires across Victoria (all 400 of them!), and in the city of Bendigo and neighbourhood of Eaglehawk where we're currently staying at my aunt and uncle's. You can read my post of last night on how it all unfolded for us here yesterday (I'm sorry, but I've been too focused on the events to take photos) or dive straight into the sobering news reports:
* Worst day for 26 years takes its toll and Worse than Ash Wednesday - good overviews of the destruction the state of Victoria has experienced over the last two days, although already those figures have been surpassed - the latest is 65 deaths, and more than 100 homes destroyed. The blazes also destroyed schools.
* A great mix of media - text, audio and video - on the ABC website and The Age site, where you can listen to an extraordinary bushfire rescue live on air and experience what it's like fighting a fire from helmet-cam.
* Up to 50 homes lost in Bendigo - the situation in the town we're staying with my family.
* Bendigo battles wall of flames - this article reports that our neighbourhood of Eaglehawk was evacuated... (oh...)
* Bendigo grandmother had God on her side - heartening - and also heartwrenching - stories.
* Aftermath of Bendigo Fires - a local blogger posts some pics of the smokes she saw from her home and the burnt houses.

UPDATE 9/2/08: Australian wildfire death toll at 108 - some tragic stories here.

Bushfires in Bendigo, part 1: why I've been humming The Clash's "Should I (we) stay or should I (we) go now?" in my head all night

My uncle's house, Eaglehawk (Bendigo) Australia, 1.30am 8/2/09:
My how quickly things can change. This morning I woke at 6.30am, made coffee, then answered emails that had come in overnight from UK editors before getting stuck into writing the book. During a coffee break around 11am, I blogged about my online pottering during coffee breaks. Terry and I wrote all day, sweating profusely. It was 44 degrees and our little fan was struggling. Around midday it started blowing a gale then the sky turned white and cloudy. We thought it was going to storm. Only it was looking like a sandstorm. Perhaps we're too used to living in Dubai as it didn't occur to us it was smoke. A couple of hours later, we were smelling it and the sky was quickly turning yellow. Tam (my aunt) came into our room. The neighbours had called: they had a message to evacuate. Evacuate? It seemed like an over-reaction... I got online and checked the Country Fire Authority reports. There was an alert that a fire nearby on Bracewell Street, Eaglehawk, was spreading...


Alert Message Bracewell Street Fire, Eaglehawk (Bendigo) 8.30pm, 07/02/2009:
People in the area need to remain alert as there may not be a warning should conditions change unexpectedly.
Continue to listen to ABC or local radio for updates on this fire.
Be prepared to activate your bushfire survival plan if necessary.
Decide now if you are going to stay or go.
Remember that it is very dangerous to leave late with a fire in the area. Road use in the area will be extremely hazardous due to low visibility from smoke. Watch out for fallen trees, power lines, abandoned cars, wildlife and emergency services vehicles.
If you plan to stay, remember to seek shelter from radiant heat. Should the fire reach your property, close all doors and windows and stay inside the house while the fire passes. Remain alert, extinguish any small fires and if necessary, move outside to burnt ground once the fire has passed
Drink plenty of fluids to avoid dehydration.

Did my aunt even have a 'bushfire survival plan', I wondered. Smoke started to creep into the house and we sprung into action. We turned on the radio to listen to reports. We could see dark balls of smoke in the sky from the fire close by and helicopters whizzed around. My aunt gathered the animals (five cats and a dozen dogs) together in the living room and we locked them in while we got organized. We packed bags with our valuable possessions (not hard for us; we hadn't had time to unpack). We got the laptops and camera gear ready. We put wet towels under the doors, got water bottles out. I slung a small bag holding torches and mobile phones over my shoulder. We began hosing down the long grass and ground around the house and spraying the roof. All the time we were keeping watch to see what the neighbours, and the smoke, were doing. Tam opened the car doors, put the keys in the ignition, and we planned where the animals boxes and luggage would go. It was getting even hazier and our eyes were stinging. Fire engines were speeding past. Cars - so many cars - were heading in the fire's direction. 'Sightseers' the fire chiefs would later complain on the radio. I refreshed the CFA site to check the latest report:

Urgent Threat Message Bracewell Fire (Bendigo) 8.30pm, 07/02/2009:
The Bracewell fire, burning at the edge of the Bendigo suburbs of West Bendigo and Specimen Hill is burning in a northerly and northeasterly direction. A section of the fire is moving towards Eaglehawk and residents in the Upper California Gully Road and Hall Street area are warned that their area is under ember attack.
There are 30 tankers and 135 firefighters working on the fire, with another 40 tankers en route from Ballarat and Swan Hill.
Water bombing aircraft are also at work on the fire, and gas and electricity to the area has been cut off to prevent leaks.
A wind change has moved through the area, slightly reducing the intensity of the fire.
Protect yourself from radiant heat by wearing correct protective clothing consisting of long-sleeved shirts, long pants, sturdy boots and a broad brimmed hat. On no account should synthetic material be worn.
As the fire front approaches, it will be unsafe to be either on foot or in a car as the heat radiating from the fire will be intense.
Buildings will offer the best protection during the passage of a fire front. Close all doors and windows and stay inside the house while the fire passes. Remain alert, extinguish any small fires and if necessary, move outside to burnt ground once the fire has passed.
If you are caught on the road, don't get out and run. Pull to the side, preferably in an area clear of tall trees and long grass. Put your hazard lights on and close the windows and vents. Cover any exposed areas of skin with a woollen blanket and get down as low as possible. Only when the fire has passed do you get out and move to safety.
Continue to listen to ABC or local radio for updates on this fire.

By now it was dark. Gradually the smoke started to subside and the sky began to clear. A vehicle with flashing lights appeared. Emergency workers had come to close our street to stop the 'rubber-neckers' going to look. The Bracewell fire was being contained. Tens of thousands of houses in Bendigo were without power and the gas would soon go off, the guys told us, to prevent explosions. We better make dinner then, Terry said. We listened to the radio as we cooked. The damage it seems is horrific. My aunt took the animals out. Close to midnight the Premiere got on the radio, speaking from Bendigo. There are fires raging all over the state (take a look at this map). It seems it is worse than Ash Wednesday, 14 people confirmed dead, but they expect the numbers to be much higher. I went to check the online report again.

Urgent Threat Message Bracewell Fire (Bendigo) 11.30pm, 07/02/2009
The Bracewell fire, burning at the edge of Bendigo has damaged a number of houses in the Long Gully and Sparrowhawk Estate area.
The progress of the firefront has been largely contained within a perimeter along Marong Road, Eaglehawk Road, Bracewell Street and Upper California Gully Road. The fire is still burning inside that perimeter. Some homes to the north of Eaglehawk Road are still subject to ember attack.
Residents in this area may experience smoke and burning embers reaching their properties, and are advised to patrol their houses to find and put out any burning embers that may be landing.

It's 2am now, and Terry and Tam are asleep. I'm going to head outside now and look for embers...

Pictured? The smoke haze that today enveloped our neighbourhood of Eaglehawk.